Valladolid 2026 Day 4: Climbing Pyramids, Another Cenote, and the Beauty of a Good Side Quest

Day 4 gave us something I think every great trip needs: a mix of challenge, wonder, and the freedom to do your own thing.

We started the day at Ek’ Balam, guided by Aurelio, who patiently tried to teach us how to pronounce the glottal stop in the name (“Ek’ Balam”). Let’s just say… some of us did better than others. (Looking at you, M!)

Ek’ Balam was very different from Chichén Itzá. It was quiet, peaceful, uncrowded, and surrounded by jungle that seemed to stretch forever. Aurelio explained that the Mayans here were known for being more peaceful, with no evidence of human sacrifice and no cenote at the center of the city. Even the ball court was smaller. Everything about the site felt more grounded and less imposing.

That's not to say that Ek’ Balam was unimpressive. The carvings here are incredibly detailed. Far more intricate than many other sites in the region. You can stand just a few feet away from sculpted figures, glyphs, and layered stonework that still feel alive with meaning, even if you don’t fully understand the story they’re telling.

One thing I didn't think to expect? Fossils embedded in the stone underfoot. It’s a quiet reminder that these structures are built from ancient seabeds. Layers of history are stacked on top of each other in more ways than one.

And then there were the stairs. There are 106 steps to the top of the Acropolis, and they are steep and uneven in all directions. Sometimes they're deep enough for multiple steps, other times, it felt like only my toes would fit. We climbed every single one. We might have taken a break or two.

Reaching the top is absolutely worth it. From above, you can see the jungle stretching endlessly in every direction, broken only by the geometric lines of the ruins. The Yucatán Peninsula is so flat that any rise in the landscape feels significant. Aurelio pointed out that any mound you see is likely hiding another archaeological site, waiting to be uncovered.

The climb up? Challenging. The climb down? Harrowing. At the top, we met a couple from London who cheerfully reassured us that, if the descent was anything to worry about, there would be a pile of bones at the bottom. I did not find that comforting. But it did make me want to do another trip to England to get me some more of that dark, dry humor. They were right, though. We all made it down in one piece.

Ek’ Balam was also a win for wildlife sightings. Friendly dogs wandered the grounds (supported by donations), birds filled the trees, and we were lucky enough to spot one of M’s most-anticipated sightings of the trip: The Toh Bird or Turquoise-browed motmot.

We spotted a pair perched quietly in the trees, their colors almost unreal against the green canopy. We were pretty far away, so you won’t see the full drama of their signature tail feathers, but trust me, it was a moment.

After Ek’ Balam, we headed to Cenote Hubiku and opted for the full package, which included a surprisingly excellent buffet lunch. It was simple but perfect. Nothing overly complicated, just fresh ingredients done well. Paired with paletas for dessert and a relaxed setting, it was exactly what we needed after a full morning of exploring.

On our way to the cenote from lunch, we were treated to a memorable performance by a peacock that happily fanned its feathers on command. The nearby peahen? Completely unimpressed. We, however, were delighted.

This cenote felt completely different from the one we visited on Day 2. It was more enclosed, not visible from above, it had cooler water, a more cave-like atmosphere, and then there was the light. At certain moments, the sun beams through the opening in the ceiling and lands directly on the water. It’s one of those surreal, almost spiritual visuals that photos don’t fully capture.

Swimming in the cenote was every bit as magical as our previous experience. The water was clear, deep blue, and cool enough to feel instantly refreshing after the heat of the ruins. Looking up from the water, you see long vines hanging down from the opening above, and the sunlight pouring in through the hole in the ceiling creates this almost cathedral-like feeling. Quiet, echoing, and a little awe-inspiring. Floating there, surrounded by rock walls and filtered light, it’s hard not to just stop and take it all in.

Also: fish pedicures. The cenote was full of bagre, (i.e., cenote catfish), and if you stayed still long enough, they would gently nibble at your feet. It was weird and kind of hilarious.

While M, S, and I were climbing pyramids and swimming in cenotes, A made a different choice. This is something I want to highlight because it’s fundamental to the Wanderful Journeys travel model:

Even on group trips, you should feel empowered to follow your own energy.

Day 3 had been a lot. So on Day 4, A chose a recovery day and fully leaned into it. Her highlights:

• Lounged in bed before enjoying a quiet breakfast at Pak'al Restaurante & Café (horchata latte + vegan French toast).

• Watched a giant iguana sunbathe while a cat casually patrolled the scene.

• Wandered the cobblestone street called Calzada de los Frailes to do some shopping. Learned the hard way that shops in Valladolid do not open early.
• Ate a second breakfast (because obviously) at our old favorite from Day 1, Le Kaat.

• Got a last-minute massage at Quietud Spa, which was amazing.
• Stumbled upon Burrito Amor in a post-massage haze but was too full to eat. Had some agua fresca and looked at the cool art instead.
  

The day was unstructured, spontaneous, and exactly what she needed. This is what a great trip allows for.

That evening, we regrouped and headed to La Selva, a restaurant our host Laura recommended as a true local spot. Her instructions were simple: “You have to try the panuchos.” Or, at least that was my translation of her instructions. In any case, that's what I did.

We ate, we drank, we shared dessert, and when the bill came, it was about $33 USD total for all four of us, including tip. If I lived in Valladolid, I’d eat all my meals there.

What made this day special wasn’t just the big highlights. It was the combination of textures: ancient stone, cool water, warm sun, shaded cafés, and unexpected wildlife moments. It all blended into one of those travel days that feels both full and unhurried at the same time.

Day 4 wasn’t about checking off a list. It was about:

Pushing ourselves (those stairs…)
Noticing the details (a bird, a beam of light)
Letting go when we needed to (hello, side quest)
And ending the day with good food and even better company

We turned in early that night because Day 5 was going to start around dawn. And we were going to need the rest.

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